Up Close: Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Date Rose Gold Black Dial 5980/1R-001

History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus in Rose Gold

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has long been an iconic luxury watch, but the introduction of rose gold variants has added an extra layer of prestige and exclusivity to the model.  Purchase this watch here.

See more Nautilus Chronograph Models here.

 

In 2015, Patek released the Nautilus ref. 5711/1R in rose gold with a beautiful smoked black dial, which was a significant departure from the brand’s traditional stainless steel offerings.

This rose gold version was priced significantly higher than the standard steel models, appealing to collectors and those seeking a more luxurious take on the Nautilus design.
Building on the success of the 5711/1R, Patek Philippe has continued to expand its Nautilus lineup with additional rose gold references, including the 5980/1R-001 model featured in this review.

Design of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is renowned for its iconic case design, which has become a hallmark of the brand’s luxury sports watch lineup. The 5980/1R-001 model features the signature octagonal case shape with rounded edges, a design that was originally conceived by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 1976. This distinctive case profile, inspired by a ship’s porthole, gives the Nautilus a timeless and instantly recognizable aesthetic that has endured for decades.

The use of a black dial on the rose gold 5980/1R-001 variant creates an intriguing and sophisticated contrast. The deep, dark hue of the dial provides a dramatic backdrop that allows the rose gold case and bracelet to truly shine, highlighting the luxurious and refined nature of this Nautilus chronograph. This color combination is particularly striking, as the black dial adds a touch of elegance and exclusivity to the already iconic Nautilus design.

The dial layout includes chronograph subdials, a date window, and Patek Philippe’s iconic “Jumbo” case size, measuring 40.5mm in diameter.

Movement and Functionality of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R-001 is powered by the brand’s in-house CH 28-520 C self-winding chronograph movement. This high-quality movement features a column-wheel design and a vertical clutch, which provides a smooth and responsive chronograph function.

Importantly, the CH 28-520 C is a flyback chronograph, meaning the chronograph hand can be instantly reset and restarted with a single push of the button. This flyback functionality is a hallmark of high-end chronograph movements, as it allows for rapid timing of successive events without the need to stop, reset, and restart the chronograph.

In addition to the chronograph, the Nautilus 5980/1R-001 also features a date display at the 3 o’clock position. The movement offers an impressive power reserve of approximately 55 hours, ensuring reliable performance and the ability to leave the watch unworn for a couple of days without it stopping.

Overall, the technical specifications and functionality of the CH 28-520 C movement are well-suited to the Nautilus Chronograph, providing the wearer with a high-quality and versatile sports watch.

Rarity and Exclusivity of Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches

Patek Philippe is renowned for producing some of the most exclusive and coveted luxury watches in the world, and the Nautilus line is no exception. The Nautilus has long been considered one of Patek’s most iconic and desirable models, with demand often exceeding supply. This scarcity has contributed to the Nautilus becoming a true status symbol among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The introduction of rose gold variants, such as the 5980/1R-001 featured here, has further added to the exclusivity and prestige of the Nautilus. Rose gold Nautilus models are produced in limited quantities, making them even rarer than their stainless steel counterparts. This rarity, combined with the inherent luxuriousness of the rose gold material, has driven prices for these models significantly higher on the secondary market. Owning a rose gold Nautilus is a true mark of distinction, accessible only to the most dedicated Patek collectors and those willing to pay a premium for this exclusive timepiece.

 

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